2019 Interclub v Fosse Co-op Camera Club

2019 Interclub v Fosse Co-op Camera Club

Tonight we held the annual interclub against Fosse Co-op Camera Club. Its a 10 print 10 PDI competition and was judged by Dave Tucker EFIAP/b, DPAGB, CPAGB who gave a lot of insightful comments on all the images covering what he liked about each and suggestions on possible improvements. We made full use of technology thanks to Daniel and Ian who sorted a system to allow us to project the judge and cloud based scoring.

Earl Shilton once again retained bragging rights emerging victorious with 344 from a possible 400 compared to Fosse who scored 323.

Special mention should goto those authors whos images scored top marks

Clive Pearson for his image “Flight of a Migrant Hawker”

Flight of a Migrant Hawker

Gary Wood for his image “Chesterton Windmill”

and Phil Mallin for his 2 images “Vestrahorn” and “Last man standing”

Full table of results are

Club Clubs Image Author Image Title FCPS ESCC
FCPS 1 Clive Pearson 1 Frosty Morning 17 0
ESCC 2 Julie Holbeche-maund 2 Autumn Fashion 0 16
FCPS 3 Peter Lucas 3 Glencoe 15 0
ESCC 4 Phil Mallin 4 Floral Beauty 0 16
FCPS 5 Linda Phipps 5 Tree Nymph 1 15 0
ESCC 6 Steve Bexon 6 Lower Padley 0 17
FCPS 7 Kelvin Townsend 7 Bridge of sighs ( Cambridge style 15 0
ESCC 8 Alan Wardropper 8 Scary Clown 0 17
FCPS 9 Clive Pearson 9 Flight of a Migrant Hawker 20 0
ESCC 10 Julie Holbeche-maund 10 Light & texture 0 18
FCPS 11 Arthur Beyless 11 Kirby Muxloe Castle 15 0
ESCC 12 Trish Rudin 12 Nutty Squirrel 0 17
FCPS 13 Kelvin Townsend 13 Through the underpass 15 0
ESCC 14 Gary Wood 14 Chesterton 0 20
FCPS 15 John Bollands 15 Finished for the day 14 0
ESCC 16 Peter Lawrance 16 Swooping Falcon 0 17
FCPS 17 Peter Lucas 17 Autumn Light 17 0
ESCC 18 Ian Waite 18 Male Barn Owl 0 19
FCPS 19 Pete Swanson 19 Spotted Eagle Owl 16 0
ESCC 20 John Langham 20 On the Street 0 14
        PDI Subtotal 159 171
FCPS 21 Peter Lucas 21 Last light Wastwater 18 0
ESCC 22 Trish Rudin 22 Crummock Water 0 18
FCPS 23 Pete Swanson 23 Flamenco 17 0
ESCC 24 Ian Waite 24 The Scamp 0 17
FCPS 25 Peggy Franks 25 Early Mist 19 0
ESCC 26 Julie Holbeche-maund 26 White Feathered Goddess 0 17
FCPS 27 Clive Pearson 27 Mount St Bernard 360 16 0
ESCC 28 Paul Steans 28 Silverback Gorilla 0 16
FCPS 29 Peter Lucas 29 Duddon Valley 17 0
ESCC 30 Peter Lawrance 30 On Mont Blanc 0 15
FCPS 31 Seetuck Yoong 31 Carnival Beauty 15 0
ESCC 32 James Botterill 32 Combesgate Beach 0 16
FCPS 33 Stephen March 33 Golden Crucifix 16 0
ESCC 34 Julie Holbeche-maund 34 Black Princess 0 17
FCPS 35 Kelvin Townsend 35 Trees in Water 15 0
ESCC 36 Phil Mallin 36 Vestrahorn 0 20
FCPS 37 Clive Pearson 37 Great Crested Grebe 16 0
ESCC 38 Phil Mallin 38 Last Man Standing 0 20
FCPS 39 Peggy Franks 39 Woodland light 15 0
ESCC 40 James Botterill 40 Talacre Lighthouse 0 17
  Print Subtotal 159 173
  Totals 323 344



2019 Tips and Tricks

2019 Tips and Tricks

Tips, Tricks and Observations

Before you go out:


  1. Plan your shoot – Know where you are going and what time of day you need to be there. Check online for sunrise and sunset time or Moon rise and Moon sets for the location. timeanddate.com  or Photograher’s Emphemeris at www.photoemphemeriess.com . Check the times for any transport you are photographing or need to use to get to location. Check the weather. There are many apps you can put on your phone or android and they are free. Write down a list of things you what to take a picture of when on the location. Go on goggle and find other photographers images of the same location and see if you can think of a different and better image.
  2. Camera Cards- Always format cards in camera not on your computer this can corrupt the card when done on computer. Always buy the best and fastest cards available. Check that you have a camera card in camera and spares in your camera bag. Have a place in your camera bag to place used cards or a gadget to hold them. If you worry about losing images from less reliable cards buy small cards such as 8 or 16Gbt instead of the larger 64Gb and above.
  3. Batteries – always buy the manufacturers camera batteries, other brands may not hold the charge and will empty a lot faster than the manufacturers. Check that your batteries have full charge in them and that you have a battery in camera and spares in your camera bag. Keep batteries in the dry, warm and waterproof place.
  4. Put your camera on auto and/or its equivalent, just in case that when you get on location the image you want is right in front of you and you need to take an image at that precise moment.
  5. Check that you have the right lens for the images you want to take and always take a mid range lens as back up for example 24-105 and/or the equivalent.
  6. Polarisers – always buy the best glass available, cheap Polarisers may degrade your image. Keep to the same brand of filters sometimes matching different types results in colour casts.
  7. Take some tissues with you.
  8. Take some silver foil, it acts as a good reflector for close/macro shoots for that little bit of extra light.
  9. Make sure you clean your lens before you put them in your camera bag and take a cleaning cloth with you.
  10. Have a compass, large bag for lying on or for covering your camera in wet weather or a towel, a pen and note pad to record where you went and what was there and anything of interest.
  11. Take your business card with you.
  12. Have a back up plan just in case the location is not what you thought it might be.

On Location:


  1. Have a walk around the location before you take out your camera; see what is there and what the conditions are. Make a note of what you see and where, so that you can come back to the spot again.
  2. If you have come with a partner, spilt up you don’t need to take the same images.
  3. When taking your camera out of the bag make sure you put the camera strap around your neck as well as the camera bag. A good camera strap to have that doesn’t slip off your shoulder is by UPstrap pro upstrap-pro.com .
  4. Check your settings on the camera. If you have it on auto and like using auto take the shot or set your camera to a shutter speed of 1/200, a F stop to suit the location and auto ISO and the camera will change the ISO to suit, otherwise start to assess the image you want and change the settings to suit the image required.
  5. Make sure you have a Polariser on your lens,
  6. When the camera is up to your eye, look around the frame is everything you want in the image there and check your exposure meter, is it in the right place for the image you want to take
  7. Don’t crop too much in camera; come out a little you can always crop again in software but it is very difficult to put something in.
  8. Don’t be afraid to up your ISO it is better to get a shot than not get the shot.
  9. If in doubt press the shutter and TAKE the SHOT.
  10. Focusing – remember to use the Hyper focal distance rule to determine what you want to be in focus. Photopills has an app for android and phone photopills.com and they also explain what it is and how to calculate the distance.
  11. Turn your camera off when changing the lens, camera card or battery just to be on the safe side.
  12. When you camera card is full or your camera battery is empty, put it back in your camera bag or a gadget away from the camera cards or batteries that have not been used. Mark the card/battery as used with a piece of paper or elastic band or other means of identification.
  13. Be careful of condensation for example in and out of hot or cold environments as your lens will mist over and you will not get the correct image. Also the sensor can get damaged by continuously being in and out of hot and cold situations i.e. air conditioning in the car on a hot day.
  14. When taking a picture of a group of people set out the chairs/location and get someone to sit in the middle or stand so that you can get your settings in camera correct and take a sample shot, then get the group to pose and take the shot.
  15. If in a cold climate, keep your camera and flash batteries in a warm place, for example in a shirt/blouse pocket close to you, so that your body heat keeps them warm.
  16. If photographing a wedding and you have just taken images inside the church and then moving outside, turn your camera settings to AUTO when you are outside take a few images and then change the settings to suit to the lighting conditions. At least you will have an image and not a white wall of nothing.
  17. If it is a sunny day and photographing people make sure that the sun is behind them and use a flash in front of them to balance out the exposure difference.
  18. If your shoot has a number of different themes for example like a wedding or a fashion shoot, change your camera card after each theme, that way if one of your cards fail you have only/or may only lose one part of the shoot rather than all of it.

After the shoot


  1. Turn off your camera and put your settings to auto.
  2. Make sure you have all of your equipment have you left anything behind.
  3. Refer back to your notes, did you go to all the location areas you wanted and did you get the images you wanted.
  4. Put your camera equipment in the boot out of sight.

Back home


  1. Download your images onto your computer into a new folder and on an external hard drive, make sure that you have at least 2 copies of the raw data. Keep the camera card in a safe place DO NOT format at this time.
  2. There are numerous places where you can store your images that are Network Assist Storage (NAS) for example Icloud or Amazon Prime. With Icloud there is a search facility that you can use to quickly locate your image(s) by name or keyword. Be careful read the terms and conditions, make sure no-one has access to your images without you knowing.
  3. If your card fails to download there is software available online that will recover your data at a cost, or you can buy a gadget that will do the same thing.
  4. If you are using large capacity camera cards then the download make take some time depending on your computer capabilities, smaller capacity cards will be quicker.
  5. If using LightRoom (LR) use the keyword facility when importing, this will make things easier to find your images at a later date.
  6. In LR Develop module use the AUTO button in the basic setting panel to give you an idea of what the image could look like then you can change it to suit your tastes click again and LR will make another suggestion.
  7. Write down your favourite processing steps, so that you can refer back to them for the next time.
  8. Format your card in camera when you are happy that your images raw and processed are safe and in at least 2 locations.
  9. Clean your lens, camera and filters and set your camera to Auto
  10. Clean your camera bag, service your tripod occasionally.
  11. Replace any used items such as large bag and towel etc.,




  1. Don’t offer to take someone else’s images in for processing, you don’t know what is on them and you could get a surprise.
  2. You could put your name and address on a piece of paper and take a picture of it on your camera card(s) then if your card was to get lost, whoever found it would know who it belong too.
  3. Don’t be in too much of a rush to take the picture when you first get to a location.
  4. Always have a back up camera if possible, even if it is only a point and shoot.
  5. Always take a portable flash with you, even for landscapes you as you might want to take some macro shots or close ups.
  6. Always take some Full & Graduated Neutral Density Filters when doing landscapes to allow for longer exposure time shots or to even out any exposure issues.
  7. Give yourself plenty of time when travelling
  8. Always have a back-up plan should the location turn out not to be what you expected.
2019 speaker Tony Winfield “Improving Your Picture Taking skills”

2019 speaker Tony Winfield “Improving Your Picture Taking skills”

Last night we has a presentation by Tony Winfield CPAGB on “Improving Your Picture Taking skills” Exploring the non-technical side of photography.
During his presentation Tony explained why various factors can effect an image both for the positive and negative. He covered techniques on how to give
the image which is basically a 2D presentation the impression of depth using things like strong foreground, lead in lines, limited depth of field,
stacking / overlapping details. He then went on to discuss horizons 20 / 80, on the thirds, across the centre etc. How our brain is programmed to
look at people. The use of rules and how they may be broken. Ideas on composition, balancing the image, forming triangles, odd numbers etc.
Colours, the colour wheel how neighbouring colours jazz and complementary colours give more contrast. Warm colours v cool colours.
Positive & negative space, how your eye always goes to the brightest element or area with highest contrast.
How removing a sky can lead to a stronger landscape. Light and the different types / strengths of light during the day.

His presentation included lots of images to illustrate the topics he was discussing which can be found on his website https://www.tonywinfieldfineartphotography.com/


2018 / 19 Trevor Wain UK Landscape Competition

2018 / 19 Trevor Wain UK Landscape Competition

Last night saw the 2018 / 19 Trevor Wain UK Landscape Competition.

This is an externally judged print competition with the theme of UK Landscapes. There were 49 entries and it was Judged by Nat Coalson ARPS.

Nat gave a master class how to analyse an image and described what was good and bad with each of the entries. He included plenty of advice and tips on how they could each be altered / improved.

The evening ended with 3 images scoring the maximum but James Botterills image “Combesgate Beach” was selected as the Judges winner with the comment “there isn’t much that could be improved on this”

From Phil Mallins “Last Man Standing”

And Julie Holbeche-Maund with “Porlock Weir”


Author Image Score  
James Botterill Combesgate Beach 20 1st
Phil Mallin Last Man Standing 20 Highly Commended
Julie Holbech-Maund Porlock Weir 20 Highly Commended
Phil Mallin After the Harvest 19 Commended
Steve Bexon Parkhouse And Chrome From Hitter Hill 19 Commended
Steve pears Canna 19 Commended
Steve Bexon Hen Cloud From The Roaches 19 Commended
Dave Carter Bolderwood New Forest 18  
Chantal Cooper Cementworks Hope Valley 18  
Trish Rudin Crummock Water Reflection 18  
Julie Holbech-Maund Snowhill Lavender 18  
Steve pears Steephill Cove 18  
Rob Jones Stourhead 18  
Ian Waite Tarn Howes 18  
Geoff Whitelocks The View From Rhos On Sea 18  
James Botterill Crow Point Wreak 18  
Geoff Whitelocks Morning Scottish Sun 18  
John Denny Normanton 18  
Robin Astle Sheep Country 18  
Gary Wood The Crowns 18  
Trish Rudin Wrynose Pass 18  
Steve pears Barwell 18  
Martin Allen Glen Etive 17  
Alan Wardropper In The Sun Light 17  
Robin Astle Llyn Dinas Boathouse 17  
Micheal Dawe Loch Tay 17  
Martin Hall Snowy Day 17  
John Denny Tite Mead 17  
Dave Carter Before The Storm New Forest 17  
Rob Jones Dunstanburgh Castle 17  
Ian Waite Grasmere Swans 17  
Peter Lawrance Lumsdale 17  
Martin Allen River Severn 17  
Martin Hall Summers Day 17  
Chantal Cooper Sunrise Through The Mist On Mam Tor 17  
Dave Varnham Windermere from Wray 17  
Gary wood Duckpool 17  
Micheal Dawe Scotish Lake 17  
Alan Wardropper Power to the People 17  
Md Trigg Beacon Outcrop 16  
John Smith Caerhays Beach 16  
Peter Lawrance Landscape London 16  
Gary Wood Priests Cove 16  
Dave Varnham View from Wray Castle 16  
Alan Wardropper Lamlash Harbour 16  
Micheal Dawe Stately Home 16  
Md Trigg Warwick Castle 16  
John Smith Winter Morning 16  
Martin Allen Mickledon Beck 15

Click for Gallery

2018/19 POTY 3: Open Monochrome

2018/19 POTY 3: Open Monochrome

Last night was the POTY 3: “Open Monochrome”: 3rd round of POTY. It was an Open Themed print competition but the prints had to be monochrome. Usual print rules and peer voting applied and 33 members voted on the 58 submitted images.

The voting was followed by a presentation from one of our new members James Botterill entitled  “The confession’s of a virgin Wedding Photographer.” during which James explained the importance of preparation and planning in this case in relation to his first ever attempt at wedding photography for his Cousin (so no pressure). Weddings are probably the single most planned event in a persons life with the planning starting months in advance if not years but on the day the only fixed point in time is when the bride arrives at the church, registry office, ceremony what ever but who often is late. The rest of the day sort of follows a pattern but is quite fluid in when and what happens. He described how he undertook both physical and virtual web research, looked at other peoples images for ideas, locations near the wedding venue and the realisation that the presentation of the final images needed to have a common look and feel to them. How when he went to the actual locations found they weren’t quite as shown but how on the day the previous visit scouting locations paid dividends as events didn’t go to the expected timetable and he end up with just 5 minutes to whisk the bride away to get some images. How he got he bride and groom to practice poses like in the professional images which are actually are often taken with models he wanted the couple to look natural & comfortable with each other looked rather than staged and how he used visual prompts to aid this. The need to have a list of the “Shots” First sight of the dress, First Kiss, First Dance etc but also the need to also keep an eye out for the unexpected cameo’s. To have a plan and a backup plan and too know your equipment for when things like the weather don’t play ball where you’d planned for the group shots to be out doors with a wonderful back drop, but it rains and you need to either retreat in doors or bring out the brollys. He illustrated his talk with some impressive images just a few from the hundreds of images he took and there were some stunning shots amongst them.